Llandovery, Carmarthenshire

Llandovery, or in Welsh Lan-ym-Ddyfri, as the latter is more correct in describing the town of Llandovery with its `Church amidst the waters’. The three major rivers of the area, Bran, Gwydderig and the Towy run their course through and around the town. Of historical importance dating back to Roman times, Llandovery has a remarkable history to tell. It is even assumed that the Romans were preceeded by ancient Britons who built a castle here in the Deheubarth.

The remains of a later castle, built by the Normans stand guard over the town today, its grounds creating images of ancient wars in the minds of the young children who play there. The warring past is the distant past. More recent times have given the town and its environs even greater fame. This is the town of the Vicar, Ficer Rhys Prichard, author of many works - but the most famous of all Cannwyll y Cymru (The Welshman’s Candle) demands a high price in second-hand bookshops all over Wales. Prichard is buried in Llandingad Church, although folklore claims that his corpse was washed away during a severe flood in times gone by!

In nearby Pentre-ty-gwyn we have the old farmhouse of Pantycelyn, the home of the 'Per Ganiedydd', William Williams. One of the three Great Revivalists of the 18th century, Williams has left an indelible mark on the life, language and culture of the whole area. His famous hymn is still sung by thousands of people each year at rugby internationals in support of the Welsh team, being the second 'national anthem' in Wales Guide me o Thou great Jehova. Williams is buried at Llanfair ar y Bryn, a church that stands on the outskirts of the town. Mr Cecil Williams, the present occupant of Pantycelyn Farm is a sixth generation descendant of William Williams, and he and his wife Cynthia and the family still offer a warm welcome to anyone who visits this important home in the culture of Wales.

This too was the last stamping ground of David Owen `Brutus’. He made his mark during the last century when coming to Llandovery to edit a religious journal that was a blatant Anglican attack on Nonconformity. Brutus died in poverty and is buried in the churchyard at Llywel. Mentioning Brutus, one cannot ignore another important aspect of the past history of the town and that was printing. Today, all that remains is the building known as the Old Printing Office and an old press in the Heritage Centre near the main Car Park in town. In its prime, Llandovery was one of the important printing centres in Wales and the books published here are today sought by book collectors far and wide. Gwasg y Tonn co-published with the then major publishing house of Longmans of London, and the books were purchased by eminent members of society from all over Wales and further afield.

In 1851 the population of the Parishes of Llanfair ar y bryn and Llandingad was 15,055; in 1861 it was 14,755. Houses numbered 2,985. In 1863 there were 101 marriages and 481 births of which 31 were illegitimate. The number of deaths recorded for 1863 was 280 of which 86 died before they reached their 5th birthday, and 18 were over 85 years old.

The Drovers also made Llandovery an important centre, being a place where they would rest their animals on the way to England. Banc yr Eidon Du was established here in 1799, the 'Bank of the Black Ox' was later to become Lloyds Bank, and one can still enter the premises, now integrated into the King’s Head public house in the centre of town

Llandovery College was founded for the promoting of the Welsh language. Over the decades it has become famous for its contribution to Welsh sport and rugby in particular, as well as other areas of academia. Founded by Dr.Thomas Phillips who in his eighty-second year provided an endowment in order to establish a Welsh Collegiate Institution. The consequence of his generosity was the establishing of Llandovery College and this was officially opened on the 1st of March 1848. The late Arber-Cooke in his useful history of Llandovery suggests that "the choice of the town as the site of the new College was no doubt determined by the position of Llandovery at the centre of the Welsh literary and cultural revival then in progress". The site of the Present College was purchased by Lady Llanover, or Lady Hall as she was then. Funds were raised by the then Town Clerk of Llandovery, William Rees of Tonn. It was this same Rees who was the owner of the famous Tonn Press situated in the town centre. The Welsh language is still very much alive in the College, being taught as a subject and also used as a living language by many of the staff and pupils.

By today, much of the old culture lies in the distant past. The College still stands, as do the Castle ruins. Ficer Prichard’s house has gone but the Printing Office is still here, as is the King’s Head. Sir O M Edwards in his book, Cartrefi Cymru ac ysgrifau eraill (1962) describes Llandovery thus, "Wrth gerdded drwyddi, tybiwn mae tref yn prysur adfeilio ydyw Llanymddyfri. Ni welais ddim gwaith yn cael ei wneuthur yn unlle, ac nid oedd neb prysur yn y golwg. O’r negeseuwr i’r meddyg, yr oedd pawb yn rhodio’n hamddenol, fel pe mai unig amcan bywyd ydyw treulio’r dydd i ddisgwyl y nos a threulio’r nos I ddisgwyl y bore." (Translated: As I walked through the town, I was given the impression that it was a place that was rapidly deteriorating. I did not see any work being carried out here, and I failed to see any industrious people in the place. Every one walked at a relaxed pace, from the errand boy to the Doctor, as if the only purpose in life was to spend the day waiting for the evening to fall and to spend the nights waiting for the dawn).

Llandovery